Instrument Pod

Ignition Key Cylinder Replacement

Ignition Key Cylinder Replacement

If you need to replace the ignition key cylinder, as I did, you use the dashboard removal and replacement method up to the point where you remove the two screws that hold the switch at the back of the ignition cylinder. Then, you move the dash a little to the left side and look at the upper side of the tube part of the assembly that holds the key cylinder, and find a small depression. If you look at the key cylinder end on, the hole is at 12 o'clock, near the front end (the car's front) and is hidden when the dash is in place. Clean it out and you see that it is a hole, less than 2 mm diam, that holds a short, loose pin that locks the key cylinder in place. The pin is flush or slightly depressed, so you can't grab it. Using a fine punch or finishing nail you can drive the pin (which is only about 5 mm) into the old key cylinder. If it is badly jammed, you could drill it out if you are not going to save it. It is a separate item and not part of the lock. The good news it that the cylinder is held by this one pin only (in my 1981 anyway), so the cylinder should slide out when the pin is no longer securing it to the cylinder chassis (the metal tub in which the key cylinder is lying is integral with other ignition components that bolt to the dash assembly). The cylinder is also held by a sliding ridge, like a slightly raised shaft key (like a dovetail or rabbet), but this is not secured. The old cylinder slides out if the rubber cover ring has been removed, and the new cylinder can be slid in, but first be sure that the ignition key is in the same position (probably off, all the way counter-clockwise) so that the linkage lines up with the similarly shaped hole in the switch assembly at the "back" (if you are in the driver's seat) of the cylinder. The pin (the same one if you saved it, or you can make a new one from brass or iron, such as a finishing nail snipped with a sidecutter) can be lightly tapped into the top hole after you line up the new cylinder and the pinhole. I chose to leave 1 mm of pin sticking out on top, in case I need to grip it and pull it out in the future. You an do this because nothing actually rests flush against the top of the assembly that holds the key cylinder. Then put the dash back on (taking care that the two long bolts actually go through the shafts that hold them), and replace the ignition cup. If you lubricated the new lock, be prepared for an oily key for a while.

I bought my ignition key cylinder with key from 928 International, but others have them. The one I received was from a newer model than my 1981, but it fit just fine.

Dan Johnson
928dan@home.com
Lethbridge, Alberta
1981 928

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