Instrument Pod

Speedometer Needle Removal

Speedometer Needle Removal

>Somebody tell me if I should pull up on the speedo needle!! ?? Please? Or
>should I go in the back - remove the 2 rear screws? I haven't been able to
>find this info in the archives or the Tips page, etc....

What I learned from a speedo expert is:

Needle removal:
Don't use the special "mini prybar" that vendors sometimes supply with their gauge face kits. He's seen dozens of broken speedo needle pins due to (improper?) use of this so-called special tool. His technique is to use thumb and forefinger to gently twist the needle counter-clockwise and pull the needle up to disengage.

Needle Installation:
Put needle on the pin with slight pressure. Turn counter-clockwise to set desired "zero" position. (BTW, take note of this position BEFORE initial removal of the needle!) Tap very gently to set needle in place.

So the key here is that the little "pin" that the needle rests on is not extremely sturdy and if it breaks, well, you're buying a new speedo!

Good Luck,

+Greg Nichols
Alexandria, Virginia
'87 928S4, 5-speed, Venice Blue Metallic



Ahh - Got it now. No I didn't have to remove the needle thankfully. I undid the screws at the back and the speedometer just comes right out easily. Super! Yes I can see the gear - a 2-cog affair. That smaller one is half chewed. I think the problem is way too much play back and forth on the shaft. Without the play the gear would fully meeting the mating gear and probably not chew up. I'm thinking that I can add something to fill the space on the inside and keep the gear pushed out and squarely on top of the mating gear (maybe I can get a few thousand more miles??). I think I'll try that. Getting the pod and all off is pretty easy.

Time to go to get some replacement bulbs....

John Pirtle
87 Auto



John,

I just did it. I managed to talk Palo Alto Speedo (www.paspeedo.com) into sending me a new gear on the advice of a rennlister. I don't know if they will keep doing that if flooded with calls.

If your gear is yellow (amber) and brittle, it is toast. Don't put a spacer in it is supposed to be loose like that. The idea is that if the motor or something else seizes the gear spits itself to the side to save the rest of
the works. I was amazed that the new gear was almost rubbery and translucent white. Probably ABS or PVC or some other wax loaded plastic.

As far as the needle removal you need only move it off of the 0 MPH stop and lift straight up. It feels like you are gonna break it but it comes right off. Line it up with the zero mark and push it back on. That simple.

Watch out when putting it back together. I kept hitting the stupid thing with my finger when reinstalling in the cluster. Then you have to go through the needle calib. all over again. Works perfecly now.

Jay K.

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