Suspension & Steering
CV Joint Relube, The Easy Way
On 12/05/98, ""Peter D. Loedding"
> Has anybody on the list repacked and lubricated the halfshaft/CV joints on
>the car? My car has 150,000 miles and still has original CV joints with
>original unsplit boots. They seem "dry" Please provide a procedure.
As you may know, Ron Bulmer has devised an ingenious way to squirt CV grease into the joints without
removing the shafts from the car. Basically, he uses about a 15cm length of steel brake line. On one end he has attached a grease fitting, while on the other end he has cut the line at an acute angle so that it looks like a large syringe. About 2cm from the fitted end he has bent the line at 90 degrees.
To squirt grease into the joints, remove the smaller boot clamp. With a blunt screwdriver, slide the blunt end between the rubber boot and the shaft. Insert the pointed end of the "syringe next to the screwdriver. Carefully push the pointed end into the boot about 3 or 4cm. Attach a grease gun to the fitting and begin pumping. Watch and feel for the grease to flow in. Rotate the shaft 180 degrees and repeat the process. Replace the boot clamp with a new one or with an electrical tie-tie. Repeat the procedure for each boot.
Merry motoring, Ed.
I'd buy rebuild kits from 928 Specialists @ <$10 each. These have instructions, CVJ grease, replacement bands and boots. If the boot are in good shape, you could even add the grease without removing the axles from the car by removing the large retaining band and slipping off the large end of the boot. That would save a lot of work. If you order the kits from 928 Specialists, I'd ask Dave Roberts what he thinks of not replacing the boots. If you do decide to replace the boots, you will have to remove the axles from the car and press off the inner CVJ. Getting the axles off the car entails removing the axle nut which is nominally torqued to ~320 foot pounds. It took me five feet of 3/4" breaker bar and pipe plus most of my 195 pounds to get mine off.
I did it. It wasn't terribly hard. Time consuming. If all goes well, and you don't have to visit someone with a hydraulic press, you should count on about 2 hours a side.
I had help from Tom Green, and he had done it before by himself. I would suggest help because there were a couple of times that the extra hands helped speed things up enormously.
I pulled the axle and replaced both boots. I pulled the joint apart and cleaned it, then put it back together by looking at the picture in the shop manual. Pretty simple, and didn't take long. My inner boot was torn, but I chose to do them both at the same time. Taking the axle out wasn't all that hard either.
You'll need some copper anti seize, and a 32 mm socket for removing the axle nut and reinstalling. A large breaker bar (mine was only about 2 feet) will be the only way to get the axle nut off. You'll need some kerosene (or gas) to clean the joint, and a non metallic container to clean it in (I just used tupperware and discarded). Finally, get a circlip plier. You'll save lots of time R&R'ing the circlip on the end of the axle holding the inner joint on.
The boot kits have everything you'll need including grease, boot, new retaining bands. You'll also need the tool to crimp the retaining bands for the new boots.
I didn't need any special tools to drive the axle back in. I just cleaned out the splines very well, and lubricated them well. It went right in.
By the way, a helper will be useful also when you are pulling the axle in order to set and release the parking break to keep the axle from turning when you are removing and reinstalling the inner joint bolts to the transmission housing.
'89 928 S4
IMHO, Mineral spirits (paint thinner) is a better choice for cleaning parts. Be sure to inspect all parts very closely for ANY pitting in the bearing surfaces. With 150K, I'm sure you'll find some.
Well, the shop manuals specify kerosene. That's because it wont dry out the parts as much as gasoline. I think mineral spirits dry out more than gasolene. You choose.
'89 928 S4
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