Manufacturer: Anchor
Part number: 2696
-or-
Manufacturer: Sealed Power.
Part number: 270-2861
I hope this helps out some people.
VR,
Troy Postin
This is a follow-up to the research and work done by Ray Wach, which he shared with the 928OC list on 2/14/2001. I followed all his suggestions, and the job was a complete success, saving several hundred dollars in parts costs over the OEM Porsche parts.
Here are some comments which are in addition to the ones is Ray’s procedure. Ray’s observations are absolutely correct, and I would not change any of them. I have put Ray’s comments, my comments, and some pictures in a Word document. If you would like a copy sent to you, email me directly. Please to not post the requests to any of the lists, which I follow only in digest form, where I miss a lot.
I purchased the hydraulic motor mounts from a local part supplier, who tends to be on the high side, but I did not have time to shop around due to scheduling constraints. I paid $59 each (compared to around $250-$270 list price for the Porsche mounts). It’s well worth checking with the Big Three for prices of the OEM mounts first- right now the OEM mounts are $175 on sale at Devek). The Ford ones I got are supplied by Anchor Industries, part number 2696. It is a hydraulic transmission mount for a 1984-1994 Ford Tempo. There are other Ford applications, but I didn’t find out what they are. Ray said he obtained his for about $30 each so it is definitely worth taking some time to shop around. The mounting studs are 12 mm x 1.75 mm, a common size for which I already had nuts, but buy four new nuts at the same time you get the mounts. You will also need to get 6-10 steel washers with at least a 12 mm or ½ inchhole to use as shims.
Based on Rays’ suggestion, I installed shims on the bottom of the mounts totaling about 7-8 mm in thickness to raise the motor to the proper level. Even though the new Ford mount measures about 77 mm in height (close to the 79 mm for the Porsche mount), it must settle down more than the Porsche one, requiring shims to raise it to the proper height. Due to constraints on lift time available, I just threw in some big, old seat belt mounting washers I had, which were about 60 mm in diameter with a 12.5 mm or 1/2 inch hole, and they did the job just fine. It probably would be better and easier to install if you were to cut or machine a single shim out of steel or aluminum. This would need to be a big round washer 50-75 mm in diameter with a 12.5+ mm hole in the center. Do not exceed 8 mm in thickness or thelocating pin in the bottom of the mount will not catch the mating hole in the mount bracket on the car. If you want to custom-make the shims, buy your Ford mounts first and measure the big bottom surface first to get exact measurements.
My oil pan started out suspended about 12 mm below the level of the front sub frame with the squashed old Porsche mounts. When the job was finished with the shimmed Ford mounts, the pan and the sub frame were at the same level, which I guess is about right.
When you are installing the Ford mounts, the bottom surface fits fine and the locating pin fits the bracket just fine. The top surface does not fit quite so precisely as Ray mentioned but tightened up OK.
I personally would never try to do this job without a lift, but I know a lot of folks have. It’s four or five hours of nasty work at best on a lift so plan on a long day or a weekend if you are trying it on stands or ramps.
Replacing the mounts has transformed the car from back to its quiet, powerful self again. The motor vibrations are all gone, and it is once again a joy to drive. My car, a 5-speed I recently purchased, has 114,000 miles, and I suspect the mounts have been unsatisfactory since 80 or 90 K. My other 928, an automatic, is showing signs at 105 K that the mounts are going on that one, too. These mileages are consistent from what folks at the Big Three have suggested is a normal lifetime.
Is it worth it to gamble on an inexpensive replacement to the OEM mounts? Are there design parameters in the Ford mount not suitable for the 928? Ask me those questions in a couple of years! If these mounts last 50,000 miles or more, I’m sure I’ll stay happy. Meanwhile, I consider my car a guinea pig and suggest you proceed at your own risk. The original mounts are expensive, but they are designed for the specific application, are well-made and fit properly! I have access to a lift and have done similar jobs many times, so it is not a super big deal for me. You be the judge.
Good luck if you give it a try. E-mail me if I’ve forgotten something.
Chuck Bos
87 928 S4 Auto
88 928 S4 5-Speed
928OC Charter Member
PCA Potomac Region
Leesburg, VA
cbos@erols.com
This is a neat idea, and I hope that it works out. My primary concern is the weight capacity difference between the two mounts.
Engine mounts are almost invariably placed at vibration node points, and this normally ends up with two engine mounts very near the balance point of the engine (just the engine, not the engine/transmission package), and a third mount on the transmission tailpiece on conventional engine/transmission units. The weight of the engine/transmission package is thus supported on three mounts, with most of the weight being supported by the engine mounts, and a smaller portion by the transmission mount.
On the 928, the two engine mounts support the full weight of the engine, plus the clutch and approximately half of the torque tube. The transmission mounts support the rest of the weight.
We are proposing to take a hydraulic mount that is designed to support the smaller portion of the weight of a much smaller package, and use them to fully support a much heavier 928 engine, clutch and part of the torque tube.
I'm afraid that we are just going to squish the little Tempo mounts.
BTW, when you install new Porsche mounts, the engine sits about 5/8" higher.
Wally Plumley
928 Specialists
No argument, Wally. It's a real crap shoot. A number of folks have expressed
the same concern to me.
Thanks,
Chuck
I'm planning to do my motor mounts this summer, and have been intrigued by Ray Wach and Chuck Bos' reports of the Ford mounts (see http://members.prestige.net/jpirtle/keepers/engine/ford_mounts.txt). I did some research and just got off the phone with Wayne Williams at Anchor Industries, http://www.anchor-online.com/index.htm.
I asked about the 2696 mount that Ray and Chuck used. Wayne said that for our car he would recommend the 2698. It is a sturdier mount with stiffer rubber in the walls, also hydraulic. He said the 2696 was a narrower wall and would be more spongy. The 2698 is 3.04" (77.2160mm) from mounting surface to mounting surface, and that there should be no problem using a washer to shim it.
Some of the applications of the 2698 mount include:
1986-1996 Ford F350 4.9L V-6
1997 Ford Ranger 2.3L L-4
1997 Mazda B2300 2.3L L-4 (same truck as the Ranger)
The 2696 mount is listed for the Ford Tempo 2.3L.
Carparts.com sells the 2698 mounts for $69 each - I haven't checked locally.
Any thoughts?
John Pirtle
Atlanta
87 Auto
http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle
John, what an intriguing idea- communicating with a parts supplier! I had checked the Anchor web site but didn't have the common sense to contact them to consider alternatives. Stiffer has got to be better so if you're going to gamble, the 2698 sounds "better" to me.
The whole project was a crap shoot for me from the get go, but as I mentioned then lift access and shop tools are readily available to me. I think I could do the next set in about 3 hours. Would I gamble away an entire weekend lying on my back with the car on jack stands or ramps? Probably not...
Since then I've also found a Volvo 740 Turbo motor mount that is almost identical in appearance to the 928 mount, but same deal- designed for a motor with significantly less weight and power. Wish I could tell you how long the Anchors will last. So far, they're fine.
Good luck,
Chuck Bos
88 S4 5-speed
Ahh - much better... :) I did the motor mount job last weekend. WOW! I can't believe how HIGH the engine sits. I was worried about closing the hood !
Yep, I went for the Anchor 2698 motor mounts. Only $49.99 each at Pep Boys, in stock. I carried my old squashed ones in to compare. The Anchor mounts look 95% identical. There are only two real differences as Ray Wach pointed out - the bolt thread sizes are different, and the locating pin is on the top instead of the bottom.
I got the 12x1.75 nuts at Home Depot.
The locating pin easily fits into a metal fold on the top of the mount housing.
According to one of the earlier emails, the new Porsche mount is 79mm tall. I measured the Anchor at about 77mm which is what Chuck Bos came up with. I bought a wide 1/2" aluminum washer and put on the top, and all this measured up to 79-80mm. My squashed mounts measured about 67mm, and both mounts were evenly mashed.
I thought I had the engine raised high enough but the crossmember wouldn't go in. Higher and higher. After things were tight I let the engine down but it didn't hardly drop! My crossbrace is about even with the oil fill cap - much different than before. :)
The engine rocks now! On the first crank I was afraid I had forgotten to bolt something up! I had never seen the engine move at all, even hand-twisting the throttle to 5k rpms. Feels great - no more "agitating". I'm pleased with the Anchor mounts and don't hesitate to recommend them. I figure if they only last 50k miles that's not bad. It will take me at least 5 years to get there, and I'll probably need another steering rack by then anyway.... or shocks, or oil pan gasket, or.... :)
Tony's site has a great description of the work. My job went just the way he described. I only had to loosen the steering rack universal, not disconnect it. Oh, the worst part was loosening the nut from the top of the mount - big nut, factory installed, 14 years old. You'll need a vise to hold the mount down. The whole job basically needs 13mm, 17mm, 19mm tools, a lot of grunting.
Thanks to Ray Wach and Chuck Bos for your research!
John Pirtle
Atlanta
87 Auto 125k
Sorry to be the one to report this, but one of the first to install Ford motor mounts on his 86.5 928S called me the other day complaining that they did not hold up very well. The Ford mounts sagged in one year as much as the OEM mounts sagged in 14 years. He said, that if he had to do it again, he would have shimmed the Ford mounts.
Based on what I've heard and seen, I'm staying with OEM mounts. They may be pricier, but it seems that they are for good reasons. YMMV.
~ Merry motoring ~
Ed Ruiz
I also used the Anchor/Ford motor mounts- I believe the part # is 2696. Have put about 3K miles on since the install with no problems- mounts appear to be at the height when first installed. I also added new front shocks at the same time and was able to complete the job in a weekend on the garage floor with no lift or hoist. Many thanks to Tony's write-up and excellent pics. New mounts make a HUGE difference in how the car feels.
Brian
86 5Sp, Silbermetallic, Catless
Those would be the 'tempo' motor mounts I think.
I used part number 2698 which were designed for the FMC Truck - a bit beefier (I hope).
It's been ~4 months and ~4K miles now with no problems or no settling.
Jay
87 S4 Auto
(contaminated with domestic motor mounts?)
I just got under my 87 a/t and after 5+ months and 4000+ miles of commuting, my Anchor 2698 motor mounts look just fine. I'll let y'all know again in a few months. Mark Janas and I put a pair of the Anchor mounts in his car this past weekend. I took some pictures and wrote a procedure - on my website.
John Pirtle
87 a/t 129k
http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle
Another source for engine mounts!
In their catalog see Ford F Series L6 300 (4.9L) or an L4 Ranger.
>John,
>
>We like many other manufacturers we offer the 2696 ad 2698 in a solid
>version. This is just a FYI incase you are worried about the Ford mounts
>failing.
>
>Our web site is www.corteco-usa.com. As to pricing, the solid units tend
>to run approximately 30% below the hydro units. We sell close to 8 solids
>for every hydro.
>
>Good luck
>
>Pat Lynch
>Manager-Product Marketing
>Corteco, The Aftermarket Business of Freudenberg-NOK
>Phone: 734.354.5312
>Fax: 734.451.1517
John Pritle
I came across the 928 Tips website while looking for procedures for replacing Ford Ranger motor mounts. I just wanted to let you know you can get them for $63.00 with shipping (for a pair) from www.rockauto.com. I ordered a set for my truck last sunday and I received them this past wednesday. They have either hydraulic or solid mounts for the same price. This is the cheapest price I have found. Autozone wants $80 each in my neck of the woods (Dallas, Texas)...
Mike Byrd