Head Stud and Cam Removal Procedure
Hi Shark Meisters:
Here are some answers (*) to questions that I had:
1. Does anyone want to sell his (or her) cam tool 9226? Rental for a month or so is another option.
* Don't need it now.
2. Is there any place that offers good deals on new or used tools?
* Baum Tools
3. I have my valve cover removed on the passenger side, and see that the manual specifies the tool 9226 to hold camshafts in place during removal and installation. This keeps the camshafts from warping. I have already removed the timing belt at TDC (Top Dead Center), and see that the manual also specifies that the crankshaft be set at 45 degrees before TDC (BTDC). (This permits the cams to be turned without piston contact.) It then says to point cam marks toward chain removable links.
4. Since it is really tough to get the belt back on, can I remove the cams at TDC, and turn the crank later for reinstallation? My guess is that the tool is designed to work only in the 45 BTDC position.
* As long as you do not turn the cams, they can be removed at TDC.
5. Has anyone removed and reinstalled cams successfully without the tool? If so, how?
* Trick for avoiding use of special cam tool 9226:
Note: I have heard that people have broken or warped cams when they did not use the tool.
Remove Valve Cover
Turn to 45 degrees before top dead center (BTDC)
Remove Timing Belt
Remove Cam Gear
Remove Cam Seal Retainers (3 of them held on by 10mm hex head bolts)
Remove Chain Tensioner
Loosen all allen head bolts, and 2 middle-end valve cover bolts (10mm hex head, with threaded center) just slightly. Start in the middle, and work toward the ends. Alternate ends diagonally after loosening each bolt.
Return to loosening bolts ¼ turn each from the center to the ends.
If necessary, lightly tap the bridges at the ends to break them loose before you get too far.
6. Does the front cam gear (that engages the timing belt) only go on one way?
* Yes, it uses a key in the shaft.
7. Does anyone know where I can get a small thin 12mm inside diameter nut to double up with the nut already installed on the head stud of a 1986.5 model? This would allow me to pull the studs out of the block.
* I cut down some nuts after I removed them from the head.
8. Has anyone removed head studs without damaging them? If so, how? (I have heard of welding on a nut, and do not want to do that.)
I used a bench grinder to cut down the height of the 19mm hex head nut from the head. I cut down the shoulders on another nut so that it became a 17mm hex head nut. I removed the stud washers using 2 strong telescoping magnetic tools. This provided enough stud thread exposure to put on the 2 nuts. Using deep sockets, snug down the 19mm nut on the head stud. Firmly tighten down the 17mm nut on top of the 19mm. Remove the stud using the 19mm deep socket.
Note: I damaged the threads on one stud initially by not using these procedures to get complete thread coverage by the 17mm nut.
Note: Studs are on 1985 and 1986 models.
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